GoodBye Pakistan

Riding across Pakistan, I couldn’t help wishing I was back in Gilgit. I was excited to be entering Iran and seeing new things but super scared to cross the most dangerous part of Pakistan and Iran, the most risky part of my whole trip to date. Leaving Pakistan wasn’t going to be as romantic as the past 6 months, it boiled down to three things, riding, expensive hotels and paperwork. How much fun can that be?I had been told by other overlanders that this is the worst 1000km in people’s lives and no one ever wanted to repeat the experience ever again.

First on the agenda was to obtain my Iran visa in Islamabad, which was quick and relatively painless except for the cost. Second on the list was to arrange for my No Objection Certificate’s from Quetta to be able to cross Balochistan and then I had to inform the Superintendant of Police when I will be arriving into Quetta.

The 'before' shot

Here is my bike after I decorated it like a pakistani truck

Not far from Sukkur, as the roads deteriorated along with the driving, I saw a local motorcycle carrying a huge bag of rice dart across my path . I knew we were going to hit,so slowing down and turning slightly I managed to turn a serious crash where I would have going flying, into a subtle side on crash causing me only to tumble off the bike. Angry, I jumped up as the man tried to drive off. I grabbed him and yelled ‘you help me lift my bike, you fucker’. I knew he couldn’t understand me but I wasn’t letting him get away so easily! By the time I walked back to my bike I was surrounded by 100 men, all helping me to lift my bike and offering chai to help calm my nerves. This was my first accident of the trip, I was shaken, slightly bruised but otherwise ok.  

Leaving Sukkur early, I head into Balochistan but not without doing a 100 kilometre detour first, as I unintentionally headed back to Punjab.

Was this some greater power telling me to return to Gilgit?

 Eventually, a few hours late, I found the border to Balochistan and was picked up by my first police escort not far from Jafferbad and taken to the Deputy Commissioners Office for my first NOC.

 Then I was passed from one police escort to another until eventually I was less than 60 kilometres from Quetta but I had run out of daylight. The police stopped me in Much and took me to the Superintendants house where I tried to blend in with his wife and nine children where I slept the night on the floor of their two room house.

My DSP Much family who hosted me for a night - thank you so much for making me feel so welcomed!

Arriving in Quetta around 11am, I was taken to the Home Department to apply for my next NOC and they issued me with a 5 day exit permit. I still had three days left of my visa but personally I think they knew something because on my way to my hotel my motorcycle started to make horrendous noises... Whats wrong? Why are you breaking down in the MOST dangerous city of Pakistan?

 At this point I was too upset. I had just driven nonstop for three days, I had somehow caught a cold, developed a vaginal fungal infection, having my period and I was fed up with the politics, paperwork and the lousy police escorts and now my bike was having mechanical issues. Why was it all happening at once?

Luckily for me I had made some really good contacts in Pakistan, so I contacted my friend in the Pakistan Bikers Club and asked about a mechanic in Quetta. The following day with my police escort in tow, I found the mechanic shop and they got right to work, pulling my tiny bike into millions of pieces. While this was happening the Superintendent of Police Security for Quetta called me into his office for a small chat about the situation in Quetta.

For the next three days, I was under house arrest – well not really but it sure felt like that.I was granted two hours per day in the workshop. I would be picked up at 11am and taken back to my hotel at 1pm. Not exactly what I wanted but it was a compromise.

Here is my alwesome Mechanic who worked around the clock

However, this was what actually happened. 11am would roll around, the police finally arrived around 11:30am, but the workshop was just opening, pointless me being there but I was happy to be out of my chicken coop (my room). 12:30pm would hit and the police, bored to be standing around babysitting a foreigner, would take me back to my room where I would spend the rest of the day watching tv.

Quetta Bikers Club

Three long days had passed by when my bike was finally ready. With a new cam chain, piston and clutch bearing, and valve clearances it was purring like a small cat. I was now ready to leave Quetta and head for the border with my police escorts of course! 

While waiting for my next escort, I got a good view of a desert village

This man made me Chai while waiting

While waiting once again, I got to watch my gaurds watch my bike

Fogging Up The Windows

Gulping back the tears, my throat is thick, I know if I open my mouth as I will not be able to control the sobbing any longer. I sit silent in the back of the Red Crescent pickup truck, my bike is securely tied down on the back with our entire luggage surrounding it. My friends stand back and wave goodbye as we drive down my street for the last time. I still don’t trust myself to speak, I remain silent and reflect on all the people who have touched my heart in this little city.

This wasn’t how I thought I would leave Gilgit. Up and until yesterday I thought I was going to ride down the Karakorum Highway for the last time on my motorcycle. However, my adopted Gilgit family had other ideas and feel responsible for me until I leave Pakistan or maybe forever. 

I had been waiting for six weeks for my Iran Authorisation Code to be allowed to apply for my Iran visa in Islamabad, I had been waiting so long I was worried my Pakistan visa would expire and I would have to make a visit to China to obtain a new visa on arrival at the Pak-China border. However at the 11^th hour I received my code and had just enough time to make quick dash to the Iran border, with a quick stop off in Islamabad to receive my Iran visa. Boy, this was going to be super tight and extremely scheduled something that really didn’t fit in with me anymore as I like to let things flow in its own time. I had been in Pakistan for nearly six months and still didn’t have enough time for everything.

I didn’t even have enough time to say all the goodbyes I wanted. So many people became a part of my life, it was no wonder my throat stayed thick. But eventually I am conned back into talking as we make our way down the Karakorum Highway. Peering through the window of the pickup truck, I silently say goodbye to everyone and everything I see and think of.

Note: Sorry for the lack of photos, my eyes kept steaming up the lens.

Shandur Polo Tournament

Dust clogged sweat drips down my face as I stare through my lens at the two teams upon their mounts pounding towards me. I feel space opening up behind me as the crowd scrambles backwards and over the white painted half height stone wall, hoping it might give some protection from the heaving beasts bearing down on us. I abandon my camera and leap over the wall onto a pile of scrambling bodies as the beasts heave past us, sweating and frothing at the bit.

preparing to head up to Shandur

the mounds of supporters

The helmetless riders grip with their thighs, leaning at odd angles while swing their long thin sticks at the tiny white ball. Suddenly the ball shoots across through the goal and the crowd goes wild, the men leap onto the highest polo field in the world and start traditional dancing in pure happiness to celebrate, as the opposing team starts to slink out of the stands. The law enforcers quickly get the crowd under control and back behind the white half height stone wall allowing the game to continue, until Gilgit won the pre-match.

Walking back through the busy, dusty bazaar (market) on our way to our camp, I was surprised to find watermelons, vegetables, chapatti’s, snacks, clothing, blankets, there was everything and anything. As the dust rose up from the bazaar and drifted over towards the main camping area, men protected themselves with scarves over their nose and mouths which made the whole bazaar look like a scene out of a cowboys and Indians film.

Dropping the pile of Chapattis off at our green VW German restaurant, I was glad we had decided to pitch our camp a long way from the polo field and the dusty bazaar. Dropping my dirty sunburnt body onto our picnic blankets under a big tarpaulin shade, it was time to relax and chat to the other overlanders I had met in Gilgit.

We had just spent a couple of easy, relaxed days travelling up Ghizer Valley, to Shandur Pass enjoying fishing, camping and each other’s company. Leading the pack is one green German VW camper van, followed by two 660 KTM, one Jiminy filled with two guys from the tourism department and one Australian Cyclist I managed to pack in and myself on my DR350 and Yasir, Deputy Director of Tourism for Gilgit-Baltistan on his 110 Honda CB.

The deal was, if Yasir was to accompany us on his motorcycle, we had to stick behind him at all costs! I broke that rule when fronted with the first steep mountain, but with one sideways glance from our leader put me back in my place and I quickly dropped into line. I think Yasir got a good feeling of what is like to travel by motorcycle, when your muscles start hurting, your back is aching, you’re consistently dirty and always on the lookout for fuel. But it’s the breeze on your face, the amazing smells, the looks you get from the locals that makes the whole trip worth the pain that dissolves into good memories.

The woman’s only section

After a cold, cold night camping at 3700 meters above sea level we were ready to watch the final match between Chital and Gilgit. Gilgit hasn’t won since 2006. Despite the fact that they had won the pre-match, word amongst the Gilgit people, there wasn’t hope they would win again today. How wrong they were, the Gilgit team pounded through the rising dust from the field and wacked home goal after goal until most of the Chital supporters had walked out and headed home in shame, while the Gilgit supporters ran out onto the field to join with the players, kicking up more dust and sweat while dancing in celebration.

A Beautiful Haven Within Pakistan

Pakistan is a misunderstood country.  It’s on the news daily about the latest car bombs, Taliban’s attacks and riots. However, since I’ve been in this country I haven’t felt at all unsafe or experienced anything like what the travel advisories keep on reminding me about. I’m not saying it doesn’t happen, it does! What I’m saying is that I’ve found Pakistan’s heaven, a large province in the north called Gilgit – Baltistan.

Gilgit-Baltistan is geography located in and around three of the highest mountain ranges in the world. It has borders with four countries - Afghanistan, Tajikistan, India and China, making this area the most influential province in Pakistan, with huge potential to develop and grow in many different areas. Move over Punjab, you might see your capital move again!

Within Gilgit-Baltistan, there is 7 districts, all with their own individual character, features, culture and tourist hot spots. In the 5 months I’ve been in Pakistan I’ve managed to explore roughly 80% of the main tourist sites and a few unknown gems. While being dazzled myself  by amazing lakes with huge mountain backdrops, I decided to write it all down and collate a guide book for overlanders. As you can imagine, this is a huge task and it will take time to finish off. But below I am giving you a snap shot of Gilgit-Baltistan to wet your appetite and hope you book your next holiday to Pakistan.

Fairy Meadows

Fairy Meadows (at 3,306m) is an emerald tucked away from plain sight in the heart of Northern Pakistan. It is the only place of its kind in the whole of Pakistan, where you will find lush green pastures surrounded by pine forest, overlooking Raikot Glacier with Nanga Parbat Mountain as your back drop. You couldn’t find a more relaxing, dramatic place if you tried.

Nanga Parbat (Killer Mountain - 8126m) is the 9^th highest mountain in the world and second highest within Pakistan as K2 is the first. This give Fairy Meadows calm pastures a dramatic back drop where everyone stands mesmerized.

Hunza

Let the colours of Hunza surround you, as the fields change colours with the seasons and the snow-covered peaks bore down on you, in turn giving you an odd sense of scale. Hunza is not only known for its Forts but also for its different culture. Women take a huge part in community, by openly working, socializing and even driving vehicles.

– Altit Fort

Altit Fort - Hunza

Altit Fort and Village view from Eagles Nest. 

Altit Model Village

View from Altit Fort window

Once upon a time Altit Fort was the home to the hereditary rulers of Hunza, now it has been recently renovated by the Agha Khan Trust for Culture, who created an astonishing tourist destination with a model village at its feet.

Just received the ‘2011 Unesco Asia-Pacific Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation’

-Baltic Fort

Baltic Fort

Baltic Fort stands proudly above central Hunza. Its position was once well protected by the Ultar Glacier, which has since receded well up into the valley. In 1996 the restoration was completed by Agha Khan Trust for Culture and is now open for tourist to explore.

http://www.baltitfort.org

Rakaposhi View Point        

A cool breeze brushes over you as you stand on the bridge and gaze up at gleaming snowy glaciers. At 7,788 meters (25,550 feet), Rakaposhi is the 27th highest mountain in the world. This is a perfect spot to break the trip between Gilgit and Hunza.

Gilgit

Gilgit is the capital of Gilgit-Baltistan, in other words it’s a hub, where you can arrange and purchase anything you need or desire. It’s not what’s in Gilgit but around Gilgit, there are many stunning day trips to be had. What Gilgit lacks in tourist activities is made up in the friendliness of the locals. Before you know it, you have a chai in your hand and made a new friend.

-Kargah Buddha

The weather beaten Kargah Buddha rock carving stands proudly on a prominent, north facing cliff 10 kilometers north of Gilgit. It resided below a hill top monastery built in the seventh century, which has since dissolved into the ground. However Kargah Buddha still shows signs of how it was carved.  

- Naltar

Naltar Valley is a where you will discover electrifying colored lakes, pine forests, alpine meadows, wildlife and magnificent snow covered peaks. Within the Valley you will discover Northern Pakistan only ski field, including a chair lift to the upper fields!

Ishkomon Valley

Ishkoman valley is usually unnoticed and backward. But nature has been very generous in providing the Ishkoman valley with a wealth of beauty. Many people here, despite being deprived of the modern necessities of life, are not ready to move from Ishkoman.

Ghizer

Phanda Lake

Ghizer warms your heart as you venture up the valley alongside the Gilgit River. Passing busy beautiful villages, ever changing fields and  fruit orchards are two of the most amazing lakes in this area. Every corner has a new vista to give you a glimpse for what’s to come, if you need more tempting.

Shandur

2011 Shandur Polo Tournament - Gilgit-Baltistan Won! 

Shandur towers 3,700m between two rival provinces, Chitral and Gilgit-Baltistan in Northern Pakistan. This is where the Hindukush, Pamir and Karakoram ranges meet creating an amazing flat wetland area, which only can be crossed between late April to early November. The rivalry between the two provinces comes to heat every year at the famous polo tournament.

Astore Valley

On route to Deosai Plateau, one travels along a slender gorge with sheer drops, narrow roads and hair raising bends which is the entrance to Astore Valley, filled with beautiful green pastures, mud houses and lakes.

Deosai Plateau

Just picture me in a salwar Kameez...

Sheosar Lake

Crossing suspension bridges are all part of Deosai

Standing with my arms stretched out wide, like Julie Andrews in ‘The sound of music’, surrounded by hundreds of different varieties of flowers (I personally know this as we tried hard to collect at least one of every type!), snow peaked mountains in the background, I find myself in Deosai Plateau, the 2nd highest plateau in the world.

Skardu

Skardu Basin

Skardu, capital of Baltistan is perched 2,438 metres above sea level and is nestled in a basin with a backdrop of the great peaks of the Karakorams. Apart from its incomparable cluster of mountain peaks and glaciers, Baltistan's five valleys - Shigar, Skardu, Khaplu, Rondu and Kharmang are noted for their luscious peaches, apricots, apples and pears.

- Shigar Fort

Shigar Valley

The Shigar Fort is something not to be missed. A recently renovated ex-Raja’s fort and palace, by the Aga Khan Trust has been converted not only into a tourist sight but also a hotel! Sleeping at a fort, surrounded by a beautiful gardens and mountain ranges isn’t something you should skimp on. Turn those pockets inside out and have an experience you will not forget.

Near Shigar Fort are two wooden mosques, which were built by Kashmiri carpenters several hundreds of years ago. Also recently renovated and well worth noting is the amazing wood work.

For more local information please refer to the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department website.